socializing

Puppy buyer beware




I look at a lot of litters online.  I run several large FB groups where people post pictures of their puppies all the time.  I am sent links to breeder pages regularly; one click leads to others and I am looking at many puppies.  When I land on a new website; there are several thing that I immediately look for.   Adorable little bundles of fluff are nice to look at; but that's not what I am looking for.  I am looking for proof of health testing, where the puppies are raised, the food that the adult dogs and puppies are given and the above and beyond that the breeder does.  There is a whole lot more that goes into a cute batch of puppies; or at least there should be.  So buyer beware.

I am constantly researching dogs; not all poodles, I like to see who is doing what.  I get a lot of emails from people looking at puppies that ask "Sherri, what do you think?"  So when someone sends me a link to a breeder that they are looking at to get a puppy, I'm on it.  There are a few things that send up red flags immediately.  Back to back litters.  If you visit their "available puppies" page and see litters listed that were born June 1, June 10, June 12, July 4th, think twice.  What does this tell you?  It says that these breeders are pumping out dogs for money.  It also lets you know that the puppies will not have had as much time spent on them as they should have. 

Proof of health testing.  I ask or look for this always.  Many websites state "health tested" on their site.  But that can mean many different things to different people.  Health testing means that the sire and dam of the litter have been health tested for breed specific diseases.  They have tested clear and the breeder can and will show proof of it.  Going to the Vet for a health check is not health tested.

If a breeder does not health test, red flag.  There are several reasons for this.  1.  They are amateur and do not know about health testing. Those people who think it would be great to have a litter.  2.  They are cutting corners and saving their money.  3.  They do not put any importance on health testing.  I just read on a website the other day that a breeder does not follow the popular "trend" of health testing.  Hmmmmm, interesting way of getting around it.  No matter what the reason; you need to know if a breeder has health tested the sire and dam of your prospective puppy. 

Socializing.  What does this mean?  Again it can mean many different things to different people.  Do the puppies receive regular human interaction? Have they met many different types of people; both large and small?  Do they have stimulating toys to play with that are of different textures, sounds, sizes and shapes?  Are the puppies introduced to the great outdoors?  Do they live inside a home where all the action is?  Do they get to interact with adult dogs other than their Mother?  All very important questions.

What kind of food are the puppies fed?  What is the opinion of the breeder as far as nutrition?  What about vaccine protocol? 

Do they temperament test their puppies and match to appropriate family.  This is a big one for me; and sadly very few breeders put emphasis on matching puppies.  Many let people pic as soon as they are born.  Others wait a couple of weeks but very, VERY few actually match puppy to home.    As a long time dog trainer and behavior specialist who does temperament testing; I know that each dog is an individual.  Picking a puppy like picking the nicest looking apple in the bunch is not the way it should be done.  A breeder needs to know their puppies; you cannot know them when they come out right away.  It takes time for puppy personalities to develop.  As far as I am concerned they should NEVER be chosen by color, sex or without knowing the dog inside.  Nor should they be picked as a first come first served.  The general public does not know how to pic a puppy for temperament. 

Official temperament testing is done when puppies are 7 weeks of age.  Whether a breeder does this or not is up to them.  But if they do not choose to temperament test they should at least know each puppy on a very personal level before placing them into the appropriate home.   

Deposits can be taken for "a puppy" in a litter.  Knowing what puppy you get should only come after temperament testing or at least at the age of 7 weeks so that the breeder can place appropriately.  Doing temperament testing and then letting people chose who they want is futile.  The general public will go with their first visual impulse.   

These are just a very few things that I look for.  If you are looking for a new puppy; educate yourself before looking.  If you are going to a breeder; learn about your breed and what tests you should expect the breeder to have done.  Even if you are getting a mixed breed; make sure that the person in charge of the puppies knows those puppies and can best match a temperament to your home situation.  

Knowledge is power.  

  


Finding the needle in a haystack.




My amazing Clyde, always in my heart.  

Honestly, how hard can it be?  Hard.  Searching for breeders who I could possibly get a puppy from is waaaaay harder than you might think.  This blog is about searching for a great breeder.  It is not a rescue/breeder debate so please do not send me nasty emails.  I would like to get a puppy; but the more I know, the harder it is.  I am very clear on what I am looking for and sadly there are few breeders out there that come anywhere near the bar level that I have set.  If they do check off many of the boxes; they are located far, far away from us on a map. 

30 years ago I visited a home where they had a litter of brown puppies.  I had been given first choice of males but when I arrived I was told that another family had got there before me and taken one of the boys.  I was very angry; what if they took the one I wanted?  She had promised me one thing and done another.  Live and learn.  I chose my brown boy who turned out to be one of the loves of my life, Clyde.  As much as I adored him he suffered from poor structure over the years.  There had been no health testing done for his parents once so ever, no temperament testing, nothing. 

30 years later I know a lot more about what to look for.  I have a huge check list and the first thing on the top of the list is tails.

Must: **

1.  have full undocked tail
2.  have fully health tested sire and dam
3.  live and be raised in home with family
4.  be socialized in the rule of 7s
5.  be a breeder who breeds only dogs with amazing temperaments
6.  does temperament testing
7.  knows the litter and matches puppy to new family

These are the 7 musts.  Anything more of course is better.  But if a breeder does all this then they have reached the bar level that I set for me. A few things can be modified but not dropped completely.  This of course is just me and after years and years of research is what I look for in a breeder. 

Admittedly, I could go out today and find a puppy. There might be one just an hour or so away from me.  It sure would be easy right?  But I cannot blindly give money to someone who does not care enough to do all these things.   My breed is one that is not so common; add to that all of these items on the list and it gets harder and harder to find the needle. 

I have found breeders who do 5 or 6 from my list.  After talking to them I realize that they do not stand strong on the other things that they claim to do from the list.  Some things on the list have a wide range of levels as far as others are concerned.  Again, I have a high bar set for these as well. 

If you are a breeder, why not do it all?  Why not do your best for the puppies you are putting out into the world.  It is easy to spot the ones who are just doing it for money.  Yes, even breeders who do not consider themselves to be puppy mills, often do it for the money.  One big clue that someone is breeding for profits is multiple litters on the ground at one time.  I've been on several sites that list litter after litter, born only days apart.  

By having a list, you can weed out the ones who cut corners, save a buck, save time and do it for the money.  They simply don't care. 

I will find the needle, but it is not going to be easy.  It is not always easy to do what is right; but that's what I'm doing. 


** This list is not because I want perfection; such a thing does not exist in the animal or human world.  I want to support those breeders who are doing it right.  Those who have the utmost care and concern for their dogs and the puppies that they breed. 




The most important thing



Socializing.  Yes, I do believe that it is the most important thing for a puppy.  When, where and how?  

Socializing - to make social; make fit for life in companionship with others.  

Which means to make ready for a life in our human world; when discussing socializing of our dogs.  Socializing is the most important thing you can offer your dog.  For breeders, it should be an absolute.  But what one breeder considers high on the list of importance, another may not. 

Socializing in dogs is not just with people or other dogs; it also includes noises, inanimate objects and environment. 

Early Neurological stimulation article.

Early neurological stimulation seems to be important to many breeders; while others don't adhere to the strict process.  In my opinion, the steps can be helpful if it is the only way to get the puppies handled at a young age.  What I believe to be far more important is handling and just general life stuff introduced at a young age.  I like to look at wolves in the wild for much of where I form my opinions.  Wolf pups do not receive a set of formal stimulation steps when they are very young.  What they deal with is life in it's many forms.   

The rule of 7s - great socializing goal.  (I love this)

Handling puppies at a young age and introducing them to many different things is so very important.  When Elsa arrived, she very literally came out of her crate and announced her arrival!  "I'm here, let's go."  She had been exploring in different environments, playing with adult dogs and been handled regularly.  She was sure footed and extremely advanced as far as physical capabilities.  Part of that of course had to do with her genetic makeup but a great deal had to do with what her breeder offered the litter.  

I have met litters who live their life in a whelping box.  Their first experience to the great big world out there is 8 weeks of age.  These puppies are at a disadvantage; so many weeks of missed opportunities have passed by and are forever lost.  

Socializing is a balancing act.  If a little is good, a lot is not better.  A little socializing each day goes a long way.  Puppies need to feel secure and if they are socialized too much, it can backfire.  But the lack of socializing can be detrimental to a dog's entire life.  Sure they can get socializing in once they join their forever family but there will always be those missed weeks where they sat in a box un-stimulated.

Puppies who are placed in a kennel type situation and not given the chance to experience home life, people and dogs are at a disadvantage.  When choosing a breeder and/or puppy you should ask or see where and what the puppies have spent their weeks doing.    

It makes absolutely no difference what breed or mix puppies are; they all require the same life stimulation.  As the puppies grow, so should their socialization.  New people of all sizes, different dogs, different surfaces etc etc.  A puppy only lives with a breeder for 8-12 weeks typically; much can be done in those few weeks to help get those puppies on the right track and ahead of the game for the life ahead of them.